A woman who has spent nearly all her life in Qaanaaq stands in my green prefabricated wooden hut, on the vast polar bear and musk-oxen skins that cover the floor.
Leonora loaned us her beautifully furnished apartment during our seven days in Moscow (she stayed nearby with her parents), and she took a week's vacation so she could be our personal tour guide.
Museum tour over, we drive back into town past the yellow bulk of the Holiday Inn, famous for being the only operational hotel during the siege, and I am dropped off at my backpackers' hostel.
Museum tour over, we drive back into town past the yellow bulk of the Holiday Inn, famous for being the only operational hotel during the siege, and I am dropped off at my backpackers' hostel.